The Sweetness of Doing Nothing in Lucca, Italy

“You may have the universe if I may have Italy” – Giuseppe Verdi

FACTS ABOUT LUCCA

• Lucca sits inside 4,2km (2.6 miles) of walls, most recently built in the 16th Century.
• The walls are the second longest in Europe, behind Nicosia, the capital city of Cyprus.
• Lucca kept its independence as a city-state until 1847. Because of this, others born in the region will consider goods produced here as “not Tuscan”.
• They have their own regional dialect, distinguishable from other Tuscan towns.
• Every October Lucca holds the largest European comic festival (think ComiCon). It’s the second largest in the world behind Comiket.
• Six world class composers called Lucca home, including Giacomo Puccini. Puccini composed “La Boheme” and “Madama Butterfly”.
• It is often called “The City of 100 Churches”, although the number is a few less.

A beautiful town in a beautiful region of a beautiful country. This about sums up everything on Lucca, but I will expound a little bit more. There are so many places in Italy to see. Rome, with all the historic sites coexisting with modern society. Florence, with its many masterpieces of Renaissance artwork and architecture. Pisa, with a world-renowned cathedral and tower. Ah, but Lucca! A city that, for us, embodies the Italian phrase…

                        Il dolce far niente

“The sweetness of doing nothing!” This doesn’t mean being lazy. Far from it. It’s the good feeling you get from being idle and living in the moment.

As we walked around this small, walled city, calmness came easy. We weren’t worried about Facebook, work, or new episodes of our favorite shows. It was as if the walls protected us from the stress of everything else.

And that is the exact purpose of Lucca’s walls. They protected the city for centuries. Designed by da Vinci himself and maintained to this day. Well, most recently at least. The building of the walls happened four different times over approximately 1800 years. No longer needed for defense, a pedestrian pathway now sits atop its wide expanse. As you walk along the path, you gaze down into the city.

Everywhere inside the wall reflects its historic look from centuries ago. Tall residential buildings ring where the amphitheater once stood. Yes, houses now rest on the footprint of what would have been the edges and seating. Creating what is now the town plaza.

Spread throughout the city are many towers. Age old towers that once provided protection are now great vantage points. Looking out over the city and countryside. One of the more famous towers is the Torre Guinigi, dating back to the 1300’s. The tower is 150 feet tall and has 232 steps to the top. The climb is well worth it as the 360 degree view is spectacular. A serene medieval rooftop garden grows on top with strong and sturdy holm oak trees.

A perfect way to explore Lucca is to wander along its streets. Because most streets don’t allow cars, it’s very pedestrian friendly. But, narrow streets with tall buildings on either side can be daunting, to say the least. It can be challenging to find your bearings without the help of seeing landmarks. Or, as we discovered, it can be the exact opposite. Getting lost in Lucca when you don’t have anywhere else to be, isn’t a bad thing. We ducked inside a small bakery and bought a loaf of bread to eat as we traversed the city. Yes, we walked around snacking on bread. And the best part, no one looked at us any different.

When it comes to architecture, Italy has some of the best in the world. And Lucca is no different. With almost 100 churches, you don’t have to look far to see amazing marble sculptures and facades. The detail and intricacies involved in the carving is awe-inspiring.

Along with Lucca’s laid back atmosphere is the solitude. They have, so far, managed to escape the large influx of tourists like the larger cities. Visiting here is stepping back in time. People sitting outdoors relaxing. Reveling in a bottle of wine. Or enjoying some bread…as we did! Looking up towards the wall and seeing bicyclists. Or, a couple out for a walk. Someone sitting on one of the many benches reading a book. And on everyone’s faces, smiles.

VINCE’S FAVORITE

It’s said perfectly with the Italian phrase above. The sweetness of doing nothing, but living in the moment. Our entire Italian trip was great! AndI want to go back again and again. There is so much to see and do, I doubt we could do it all. But during our time here, we got to reflect on where we were and what we are doing.

ANGELA’S FAVORITE

Wandering the narrow cobblestone paths are the perfect place to get lost. Walking through the opening in this walled city feels like you are transported back in time. There are no cars whizzing past you, no horns blaring. Just a peaceful stroll through cafe lined walkways. It is definitely a place that leaves you ready to pound out your greatest novel (even if you aren’t a writer). 

TIPS FOR VISITING LUCCA, ITALY

• Wear comfortable walking shoes. Everywhere you go and everything you do in the city is on foot.
• Take some water with you.
• If you have time before your visit, try to learn some phrases in Italian. We had no trouble communicating. But showing the effort to learn their language is always appreciated as you travel.
• Unplug! For a little while at least.
• RELAX!! Leave your stress at the city gates when you come inside the walls.
• Grab some bread for your journey through town.