It’s been called “peacefully strange” and that sums it up well. This small, high-desert, west Texas town. A surprising arts hub and the site of a supernatural phenomenon has people flocking to the unassuming town of Marfa, Texas.
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Some say it is one of America’s last frontiers.
It is definitely a town built on self-discovery.
Facts about Marfa, Texas:
- Established in 1883 as a water stop and freight headquarters for the Galveston, Harrisburg, and San Antonio Railway.
- Named after a character in the novel The Brothers Karamazov by Fyoder Dostoyevsky.
- Situated at 4,830 ft altitude in the Marfa Plateau surrounded by the Davis Mountains, Chisos Mountains, and Chianti Mountains.
- Known for its excellent soaring conditions.
- East of town you will find the famous Marfa Ghost Lights
Everything You Need to Know about the Marfa Lights
When to see the Marfa Lights
We were told the lights are fickle, but the locals will say they most often see the lights at first nightfall continuing for a few hours.
How to see the Marfa Lights
Drive east out of town about nine miles to a viewing area. The area is understandably not well lit so be careful where you step. In the summertime, you are still in western Texas and could encounter snakes. In the winter, bring a coat!
What are the Marfa Mystery Lights
The Marfa Mystery Lights are a top reason for visits to the area.
The first mention comes from 1883 when cowhand Robert Reed Ellison claims he saw flickering lights one night. While driving a herd of cattle near Mitchell Flat, he saw what appeared to be flickering lights off in the distance. He assumed them to be Apache campfires. When retelling his story to area settlers, others said they saw them at times, too. But, upon investigation, no ash or other evidence of fires were found. Fast forward to World War II, when the Army had a pilot training base nearby. Pilots, too, would try to find the source of the lights. But, as with the others, found no evidence of anything.
A chance to see this unexplained phenomenon is eerie and exciting. The lights appear randomly during the night, but we were told for our time of year before midnight would be best. So we bundled up to ward off the quickly dropping temperatures and headed out to the official Marfa Lights Viewing Area (located nine miles east of town on Highway 90).
Coming from Vegas, it was DARK. I tripped over everything as I looked up, not for the Marfa Lights, but enthralled with the Milky Way overhead. Looking ridiculous stumbling in the dark with giant Comfy(TM) hoodies on we made it to the balcony and quickly saw the lights. It was about 9 pm and for us, it looked like stars had fallen and were mimicking fireflies while changing colors on the horizon. We saw them slightly to the left when looking out. After watching for a bit we had no answer (after all physicists have investigated and do not have answers either).
We read all the justifications for the lights.
- Car lights from a nearby road. No, these didn’t move like car lights and have been reported since the mid-1850s.
- Coyotes bringing people across the border. I doubt people with flashlights move like that and would imagine Border Patrol (which was all over the area) would have stopped them.
- Gases. Maybe?
- Aliens. Naw
- Ghosts. Naw
So maybe this wasn’t everything you need to know about the lights as much as it is everything we could find out.
Hollywood Came to Town with the James Dean Giant Production
Hollywood invaded tiny Marfa, Texas in the Summer of 1955. The production of Giant starred Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson, and James Dean. The film ended up being Dean’s last. Reports are that Director George Stevens captured so much film that the editing took Warner Bros a full year to complete. The film was added to the United States Film Registry for being “culturally, historically or aesthetically significant.” The film’s legacy still has fans flocking to see the locations.
In 2018, California-based artist John Cemey reached out to Marfa to donate a piece commemorating Giant.
Prada of Marfa
No, that is not a typo. About 37 miles northwest of Marfa near the town of Valentine you will find a Prada store. Complete with inventory, but never any shopping hours. It’s an art installation.
👜 The artists, Elmgreen & Dragset describe the piece as a “pop architectural land art project” Opened on October 1, 2005.
👜 Construction cost about $120,000. The original intent is that the building not be repaired. It is built to gradually degrade into the desert.
👜 Yes, the products are real! Valued at about $80,000
👜 The night after the art exhibit opened it was robbed. Now the purses have no bottoms and the shoes are right foot only. (They did repair those damages)
👜 It went unnoticed by the Texas Dept of Transportation until 2013 when Playboy erected a 40-foot-tall neon bunny nearby. TxDOT considered both installations to be advertising which required permits. In September 2014, TxDOT classified the Marfa Prada as a museum allowing it to remain.
👜 It was highlighted in an episode of The Simpsons in 2019
Historical Fort Davis
Fort Davis is one of the best examples remaining of a military outpost in the American Southwest. It is a reminder of the role the military played in the settlement and development of the West. Fort Davis is one of fourteen forts in the frontier fort system protecting emigrants, mail coaches, and freight wagons on the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahua Trail.
Everyone needs a break from time to time. This is a place to take a break, but still be entertained. I am not sure that can truly make sense until you visit Marfa.
This local says it all. “People are always asking me, ‘What is there to do here?’” says Planet Marfa owner Jon Johnson, who grew up on a cotton farm 50 miles outside of town and returned in 2004 as a retiree. “I say, ‘There’s nothing to do here. That’s why people come to Marfa—to get away from all that. They come here to breathe!”
Angela DiLoreto
Picking just one thing as a favorite for Marfa is hard. While seeing the lights was weird and fascinating at the same time, so was walking around such an eclectic little town. But, I would have to give it to our visit to nearby Fort Davis National Historic Site.
Vince DiLoreto
Getting to Marfa, Texas
It takes effort to get here. It isn’t a simple day trip from any big city. El Paso would be the closest and that is a three-hour drive. It is a drive of self-discovery that is worth the effort!
Tips for your trip to Marfa, Texas
- The Chianti Foundation is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays so many other businesses follow their lead.
- Make sure you stroll through downtown to see the galleries and historic buildings. You will undoubtedly encounter a few “Instagram models” doing their photo shoots, but other than that will have a great time.
- Make a stop at Marfa Burrito. They famous for their handmade tortillas and the hype is well-deserved! Bring cash though! They do not accept cards.
- While strolling downtown, visit Hotel Paisano. It served as the center of activity during the movie Giant with James Dean, Rock Hudson, and Elizabeth Taylor.
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