Traditional Greek music plays over speakers on light posts. Every street sign has Greek lettering with an English translation. Greek Ya-Ya’s (grandmothers) are setting out their wares for sale. And the sweet aroma of baklava fills the streets. No, you’re not in a small Greek coastal village. In fact, you’re thousands of miles away from Greece in Tarpon Springs, Florida. We can think of no better place in America to experience Greek culture than here.
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Facts About Tarpon Springs
- Tarpon Springs has the highest percentage of Greek Americans of any city in the US.
- On February 12, 1887, it became the first incorporated city in what is now Pinellas County.
- Was originally developed as a winter vacationing spot for wealthy Northerners.
- John K. Cheyney founded the first local sponge business in the 1880s.
- In 1905, John Cocoris introduced the technique of sponge diving. He recruited Greek divers and crew members from Greece.
- Known for religious ceremonies. The January 6th Epiphany celebration is the largest in the Western Hemisphere. It brings Greek Americans from all over the country. The city’s population triples for the day.
Early Days of Tarpon Springs
The region was first settled by both white and black farmers and fishermen in 1876. The town’s name, Tarpon Springs, is said to originate from Mrs. Ormond Boyer. A settler from South Carolina, she was standing on the shore of the Bayou when she saw fish leaping. “See the Tarpon spring”, she exclaimed!
In 1881, Hamilton Disston purchased the land where the city now stands. One year later, he ordered the creation of a town plan. In February of 1887, the town became incorporated, becoming Pinellas County’s first. Less than a year later, the Orange Belt Railway would come to town. With it came wealthy Northerners who viewed the area as a winter vacationing spot.
The sponge industry got its start in the 1880s with John K. Cheyney. As it grew, many people came from Key West and the Bahamas. With them came Greek immigrants in the 1890s. One of these early immigrants was John Cocoris. He started working with Mr. Cheyney. He then introduced the technique of sponge diving. He began recruiting divers and crew members from Greece. Because of this, sponge diving became a leading maritime industry in Florida. And the most important business in Tarpon Springs. This booming industry helped deem Tarpon Springs as the “Sponge Capital of the World”. At first, most divers came from the Saronic Gulf islands of Greece; Aegina, and Hydra. Soon after, those from the Dodecanese islands of Kalymnos, Symi, and Halki outnumbered them.
While it is unknown when exactly sponges were first used, they do show up in ancient Greek writings. Both Homer and Plato wrote of using the sponge for bathing. Europeans used soft sponges for many uses. Including padding for helmets, portable drinking utensils, and even municipal water filters. They were used for cleaning, paint applicators, and even discreet contraceptives. But, by the mid 20th century, over-fishing had brought both the animal and the industry close to extinction. Today, a smaller industry and better conservation efforts ensure a consistent supply.
Early sponge diving used a cylindrical object with a glass bottom to search for sponges on the sea floor. When found, a diver would go overboard to get it. This freediving method involved a naked diver carrying a roughly 30-35 lbs. stone, called a skandalopetra. This stone was tied to the boat and would quickly take the diver to depth. Once on the bottom, the diver cut the sponge loose and put a special net around it. How long the diver stayed submerged depended on his lung capacity. They often went down about 100 feet for approximately 5 minutes.
Sponge Diving Cruises
Along Dodecanese Blvd, where you can find everything sponge related, is the St. Nicholas Boat Line. Founded in 1924 by Captain Michael J. Billris, it is still operated by the same family. It is also one of the oldest attractions in Florida. During the cruise, you’ll learn about a variety of sponges and how to tell them apart. A diver will don the traditional diving equipment of a heavy rubber suit and large brass diving helmet. The helmet has a thick hose attached to it to supply air from the boat. Next, the diver sinks into the water. After watching the bubbles for a few minutes, he reemerges with a natural sponge.
Dining in Tarpon Springs
As you can imagine, sponge diving will make you hungry. Boats will often go out for a few weeks at a time. While away, divers will eat very little to avoid getting sick. But when they return home, they are ready to enjoy authentic Greek meals. All along Dodecanese are restaurants specializing in Greek cuisine. These are so good, that you will be excused for forgetting you’re in Florida and not Greece.
Hellas Restaurant & Bakery
Since 1970, Hellas has been a favorite spot for both locals and tourists alike. Owned and operated by the Karterouliotis family. They offer a truly authentic Greek dining experience. Located in the center of Tarpon Springs, you are a short walk away from the Sponge Exchange and the docks. This is where sponges are laid out to dry. Many stop in for the Greek salad. Large enough to feed up to four people, it is topped with a scoop of the family’s secret recipe homemade potato salad. Yes, you read that right…potato salad tops a Tarpon Springs Greek salad. Just don’t ask for the recipe, it’s a secret. But Hellas offers many familiar dishes. From gyros and dolmades to spanakopita and more. If it’s sweets you’re after, you’re in luck. Hellas on-site bakery offers many delicious pastries to finish your meal.
Why do Greek Salads Come with Potato Salad in Tarpon Springs?
The tradition of adding potato salad started as a military meal in WWI. Louis Pappamichalopoulas (later shortened to Pappas) was an Army chef serving in France. He knew troops needed carbohydrates and protein to sustain them. So he began adding it to make it more filling. When he moved to town in 1925, he opened a restaurant called Louis Pappas Riverside Cafe. He added the dish to his menu after working with servicemen in the area. This reminded him of his army days and a tradition was born. The Tarpon Springs location is no longer here. But another location in nearby Clearwater is worth a trip.
Mykonos
Like the Greek island of the same name, Mykonos offers superb grilled seafood. The food tastes straight out of a Greek grandmothers, or Ya-Ya’s, kitchen. Sit back and enjoy your meal while you watch the sponge boats leaving from the nearby docks.
Rusty Bellies Waterfront Grill
Relatively new to the waterfront, Rusty Bellies opened in 2005. Years before, Julie Russels parents, Joe and Sue Reis, moved to Tarpon Springs. They purchased several boats, including a shrimp boat. Before too long, they purchased the boat yard and started a seafood business. In 1985, Julie and her husband Jack took over operations. Later, their love of fishing and the business spawned Rusty Bellies Waterfront Grill. In case you’re wondering, a “rusty bellie” is a nickname given to the large male gag grouper. A look around the restaurant shows photos of friends and family alike. These fishermen bring fresh seafood to their docks. The menu gives credit to them by naming items after their beloved fishing boats.
With its location on the docks, you have an amazing waterfront view while enjoying your meal. You can watch the lighted boat parade around Christmas sail by, too. But you’d better get there early for a seat. Or, sit back and enjoy the laid-back atmosphere while listening to live music. Make sure you grab a drink from the Tiki Bar, as well.
Dmitri’s On the Water
The son of the “Mykonos” owners, Demetrios Salivaras opened Dmitri’s On The Water on January 6th, 2010. He is the oldest child of Andreas and Renee Salivaras. Because of his parents, he has always been involved with the restaurant business. He even dressed in a mini-servers uniform and followed his dad around restaurants. After high school, he attended the Culinary Institute of America and interned in Hawai’i. Demetrios then moved to California. Here, he learned the harvesting and cultivating of grapes for wine. Also learning the process of winemaking. And obtaining extensive knowledge of wine and food pairings. This truly comes out in his cuisine, which has earned him many prestigious awards.
Like the others, Dmitri’s is just up from the sponge docks and sits waterfront. Along with fabulous seafood and other Greek options, they offer an “If you hook, we will cook it!” Imagine docking your boat after a long day of fishing and having it prepared for you while you take a beautiful sunset.
Trips With Sips In Tarpon Springs
Who doesn’t enjoy a nice refreshing drink on a humid afternoon? I know we do and Tarpon Springs does not disappoint. From breweries to a distillery, they have you covered.
Brighter Days Brew Co.
Located along the Pinellas Trail, Brighter Days Brew Co. knows what it means to look forward to those. For some, opening during a pandemic would be intimidating. But for co-founders Jason Leonard and Aron Guten, it was just another challenge. One more hurdle to clear to bring a dream to reality. And what a dream it was. To accommodate the closures brought on by Covid, they pivoted and closed the tasting room. Switching to a carry-out-only method, they weathered the storm. And with their location on the Trail, they used it as the lifeblood of their new brewery. They added a 900-square-foot patio so patrons could park their bikes, walk up to the take-out window and never have to come inside.
Two Frogs Brewing Company
Located in the historic downtown, Two Frogs is housed in an old drugstore dating from 1895. This father and son nanobrewery has a history of operating breweries. In fact, the head brewers’ grandfather owned a brewery in pre-Prohibition times. Opened in 2017, Two Frogs’ head brewer, and owner, has been brewing since 2014. He has already produced two award-winning beers. The atmosphere here is very relaxed, friendly, and great for an afternoon stop.
Tarpon Springs Distillery
Located in the former Stephen Katzaras Sponge Company warehouse. This distillery creates ultra-small batch artisanal spirits on-site. They make everything you would expect. From different whiskeys and gins to some you probably wouldn’t. Like their Papou Ouzo. Papou is Greek for grandfather. Or their Anclote Aquavit. Aquavit, or water of life, was invented in Scandinavia in 1531. It’s said to cure all ailments. That might not be true, but having some just to be sure might not be a bad idea. The distillery works to embrace the unique coastal Greek-American heritage of Tarpon Springs.
5 Branches Brewing
This veteran-owned nano-brewery is a great place to escape the heat. And grab one of their award-winning beers. Ramey Simpson and Jerry Brown were nearing the end of their military careers. So they chose to pool their resources and launch this brewery post-retirement. The name pays homage to the five branches of the military; Army, Navy, Air Force, Marines, and Coast Guard. As big supporters of the veteran community, you can find them giving back whenever possible.
Read more about 5 Branches Brewing in our Trips with Sips article.
So, what else is there to do in Tarpon Springs?
As you make your way down Dodecanese Blvd, you will see many signs and hear the “barkers” offering you water-based tours. They vary in time, price, and excursion. Whichever one you decide on, you are sure to have a good time. Fishing charters are available as well.
Dream Catcher Explorations
Offering small tours of 6 people or less, Dream Catchers is an opportunity to pack much into one tour. It is all here; snorkeling, dolphin viewing, and great shelling. If you go at the right time, you may even see manatees. There is a lot of wildlife throughout the Anclote Wildlife Preserve you will spot. The snorkeling is in only 4 feet of water, so it is good for any level of snorkeler.
Island Adventure Dolphin Cruise
This company offers different tours. So you will definitely find one that matches your interest. Daytime and sunset dolphin cruises allow you to get close to these beautiful animals. If you take the sunset cruise, you are presented with sunset over the Gulf of Mexico. Another option is their dining cruises. Before departing, you are treated to an authentic meal from Yianni’s Greek Cuisine. Island Adventure also offers private tours. Such as for corporate events, birthdays, family reunions, weddings, and more.
Tiki Tavern Nautica
If you’ve come to Tarpon Springs for a different type of vacation, say a bachelor or bachelorette party, they’ve still got you covered. Move your tiki party out on the water. Tiki Tavern has an excursion to suit you no matter what. From different types of parties to pub crawls. Private parties to custom packages. Whatever you can think of, let them help plan your booze cruise.
Krisula’s Walking Tours
Maybe as you await your boarding times, you would like to learn more about the city itself. Krisula’s has three options for you. You stroll along the sponge docks and learn the history of this vital industry. Or, mosey around midtown and learn why Tarpon Springs is referred to as the “Venice of the South”. Their third tour, the “Tarpon Adventure”, is a combination of the others. The first two end with “Coffee and Conversations” at one of Tarpon’s many Greek cafes. The “Tarpon Adventure” ends with lunch at one of the favorite local Greek restaurants.
Safford House
One of Tarpon Springs’ best-kept secrets is the Safford House Museum. Here you will walk through the restored home of one of the city’s original developers. Restored to its Victorian splendor, the house is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. As you are guided through the house, you will hear stories of the accomplished Saffords. Anson P.K. Safford was the former territorial governor of Arizona. His wife, Soledad, was an accomplished social leader of Mexican descent. And his sister Mary Jane was the town’s first doctor.
Saint Michael Shrine
This shrine was built more than 80 years ago to fulfill the promise of an ill 11-year-old boy. He made it to the Archangel Michael for saving him. Over the years, the faithful have reported several miracles after visiting the shrine and praying.